Talk about paradise! It took us two hours to get there from Tumon (on scooters that wouldn’t go over 35 mph and a decent hike through private property) but it was entirely worth the trip.
The hike down remind me a bit of the steps to and from Coit Tower in San Francisco, except somehow even more lush and tropical.
When we got there, we were completely awe-struck by how beautiful the beach was. There was not a single soul in any direction (something we saw more often than not on the island) and it was like stepping into a postcard.
The only downside of the beach is the current. Thanks to its location on the island, the tides are incredibly strong and have a tendency to suck people right out into the Philippine Sea. Yikes, right? Total yikes. And perhaps it’s different in the refuge area, but the water doesn’t go more than a couple feet deep all the way out to the coral shelf. Because of the tide and the shallow water, snorkeling ain’t easy out there, but what you can find is still beautiful. Even if you don’t snorkel, there’s plenty of beach to be combed and napping under a palm tree to be done.
We tried to visit on New Year’s Eve, which is apparently some form of a government holiday. I don’t know where you can find a list, but make sure you don’t visit on a government holiday because the public part of the beach is a National Wildlife Refuge and it won’t be open to the public.
When we realized the public beach was closed, we tried our best to find some sort of access to it from the private side of the road. The beach is at the bottom of a steep drop-off, so you can’t just sneak through the woods and find your way there like you could on the south side of the island where there are fewer cliffs. All of the private beach access points are part of resorts that require AT LEAST $20 per person to get in, and from what I’ve read, few of them are worth the high cost of admission. A camp let us park our scooters behind a tree and use their stairs to get to the beach, but we were very lucky they were so kind and I honestly wouldn’t count on that for a return visit.